与传奇人物一起冲浪与比尔-汉密尔顿一起学习如何乘风破浪

水上人的生活方式建立在对海洋的深深敬意以及与海洋的默契配合之上。考艾岛传奇冲浪者和塑造者比尔-汉密尔顿（Bill Hamilton）就是一个令人难以置信的例子。比尔从小就生活在海浪和沙滩中，他在水中就像在自己家中一样自在--这是真正水上人的标志。

冲浪从小就成为他生活的中心，为他提供了一个令人兴奋的渠道，让他日复一日地研究水域，加深与海洋的关系。随着时间的推移，他对冲浪的热爱开始超越生活的方方面面，很快，他开始亲手设计和制作超个性化的冲浪板。几十年后的今天，他依然秉承着这种精神，珍惜在水中的时光，并以对细节的高度关注亲手打造定制冲浪板。

我们与比尔一起讨论了他作为冲浪者和冲浪板设计师的独特历程、他最喜欢的世界各地的冲浪点、他的设计背后的灵感、他给年轻时的自己的建议，以及他在Hanalei Bay 1 Hotel 不可思议的"与传奇人物一起冲浪 "体验。 

专访考艾岛传奇冲浪手和设计师比尔-汉密尔顿（Bill Hamilton

You’ve said that your early lessons in life were taught to you by the great outdoors and watermen. How did nature help to carve your career path?

I continue to thank my parents for providing an awesome environment to grow up in. We moved to Laguna Beach, California in 1950 and settled into a small apartment above the beach with a grand view of the ocean. I had salt water and sand on my body from day one, and I continue to have that to this day nearly 75 years later. The ocean and its surroundings became my teacher as did the people who frequented it. Fortunately for me, the epicenter of surfboard building and wave riding was just a few miles to the south of Laguna, Dana Point. In 1959, at the age of 11, I purchased my first used surfboard from Joyce and Dick Pettit, who happened to be a resin and fiberglass salesman with surfboard and sailboat magnate Hobie Alter and some of the boat designers and builders in Newport Beach, like Joe Quigg. I was surrounded by ocean people and quite naturally became one myself. As a diver and a fisherman, I learned skills that I would later use as a commercial fisherman on Kauaʻi. Probably the most pivotal experience of my life was traveling to Hawaiʻi when I was 14 to surf in the Makaha International contest in December 1963. I fell head over heels for the environment of the islands and discovered at a very young age that I wanted to spend the rest of my life as a lifelong surfer and ocean-born man.

What is your favorite memory of surfing and your favorite place that you’ve surfed? 

Surfing has a magical, almost mystical, and spiritual presence in the sense that you exist purely in the present moment and it's very addicting. The feeling of having saltwater on your body for hours on end also has an electrifying effect on your entire being. Having mastered the surfing technique over many decades of time, I find myself flying over the water with the freedom of a bird. The surfing experience when you reach that level is all-encompassing. I have surfed in many beautiful places throughout the world and discovered a few notable surfing locations. One of them is in France, called Hossigor, and also Nazarre in Portugal in 1968. But the best surfing memories are on Kauaʻi and the queen of all surfing locations, Hanalei Bay.

You’re known as a legend within the surf community for both pioneering the world as a surfer, but also as a shaper. Can you share what inspires your designs?

Making surfboards for good surfers and being able to ride the designs with knowledge of how they work, from small to Mount Everest gigantic. Hydrodynamic theory is constantly being explored. Right now, I am shaping the old surfboard designs from the 14th to the 17th century in Hawaiʻi. The surfboards are incredibly designed and crafted from native wood like breadfruit (ʻulu) and koa and the very light wiliwili. It's amazing to me how advanced the early Hawaiian surfboard designs were. I’m sure they were traveling sideways and at very great speeds. The water ski thinness of the rails and their square hard edges, combined with modern-day thickness and width, made for an exceptional craft. It became a lost art at the turn of the 18th century but was rediscovered in 2006 by a pro surfer in South Africa, who copied one he had seen in a museum in England.

What advice would you give to a younger you? Similarly, what advice would you give to a surfer coming to Kauaʻi for the first time?

Ask me this question 50 years ago, I would say follow your heart. But with wisdom, I will add a bit more. It's important to find and pursue the things you love. It's also important to take inventory of yourself. Who are you? Why are you? The fact that we are given a lifetime with a body to make it well over seventy years on this planet, you need to take care of yourself and check the oil now and then. Remember that the choices you make sometimes will change your entire life, for better or worse. My motto has been to leave this a better place than I found it. Never create chaos in thought or action, and maintain a high degree of light and happiness.

What advice would you give to a younger you? Similarly, what advice would you give to a surfer coming to Kauaʻi for the first time?

Ask me this question 50 years ago, I would say follow your heart. But with wisdom, I will add a bit more. It's important to find and pursue the things you love. It's also important to take inventory of yourself. Who are you? Why are you? The fact that we are given a lifetime with a body to make it well over seventy years on this planet, you need to take care of yourself and check the oil now and then. Remember that the choices you make sometimes will change your entire life, for better or worse. My motto has been to leave this a better place than I found it. Never create chaos in thought or action, and maintain a high degree of light and happiness.

请向我们介绍一下您在Hanalei Bay 1 Hotel 的 "与传奇人物一起冲浪 "体验，以及这种体验的独特之处。

我是定制个性化冲浪板的专家。我会告诉您所有细节，从您的体型、体重和水上经验，到您冲浪的类型、您目前冲浪板的尺寸、您对冲浪板的要求，以及您的具体艺术要求（颜色、设计等）。根据您的技术水平，我可以带您到亲切、无压力的区域，或者到单黑或双黑钻石区域。我在考艾岛已经生活了 50 年，并于 1974 年在哈纳雷创办了第一所冲浪学校，我热爱冲浪教学，并拥有丰富的教学经验。Hanalei Bay 1 Hotel 将提供丰富的保健服务，总之，如果天气允许，这将是难忘的一天。谢谢！

与传奇人物一起冲浪 

与比尔-汉密尔顿（Bill Hamilton）在Hanalei Bay 1 Hotel 体验传奇冲浪，度过难忘的一天。从 90 分钟的私人冲浪课程到与汉密尔顿本人共进晚餐，您一定会收获远远超出冲浪深度的宝贵智慧。